
Episode 23
Woodford Reserve
· 7 min
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Show notes
This week the seersucker comes out: Woodford Reserve. We taste it honestly — dried fruit and mint on the nose, caramel into dark chocolate on the palate, a long composed finish engineered to never embarrass anyone on camera — and we tour the distillery's greatest product, which is the word "Versailles," pronounced ver-SALES. Then we profile the man who deploys it with maximum ceremony: the commercial real-estate broker whose one party a year has a run of show, whose "heirloom" julep cups have an Amazon order history, and whose kitchen-island seminar on pot-versus-column distillation has the same forty-five-second runtime as a docent who truly loves his wing of the museum. A loving roast that surrenders around the fourth julep, when it becomes clear what the six hours are actually for. Tasting notes and character flaws, as always.
Transcript
Transcript
You can tell a lot about a person by what's in their glass. Sometimes it says, I appreciate true craftsmanship. And sometimes it says, I will definitely try to explain cryptocurrency to you at this party. I'm Tim Fulton, and this is Character Proof.
Every episode we pour a different whiskey, break down the actual tasting notes, and then vividly imagine the exact type of person who drinks it on purpose. So grab a glass, pull up a chair, and get ready for some tasting notes, and a whole lot of character flaws.
Let's get pouring. Woodford Reserve is what happens when bourbon dresses for the job it wants. It's a triple distilled marriage of pot still and column still, aged in Versailles, Kentucky, pronounced ver-SALES, and we'll come back to that.
And the glass tells you everything before the cork does. That squat, flask-shaped bottle was designed to look correct on television, and it does. The nose is genuinely lovely, dried fruit and sweet aromatics, toasted oak, a ribbon of mint, cocoa underneath like a secret.
The palate is where the 72% corn and generous rye shake hands. Rich caramel and vanilla upfront, then baking spice, a square of dark chocolate, a little citrus peel keeping it honest. The finish is long, creamy, and composed.
Nothing jagged, nothing loud, everything in its seat before the camera pans. This is the official bourbon of looking like you know what you're doing, and no one on this continent deploys it with more ceremony than Parker Davenport, who has been planning the first Saturday in May since roughly the second Sunday in May of last year.
Parker is 45, commercial real estate, and he throws exactly one party a year, but understand that party is underselling it, the way boat undersells an aircraft carrier. The Derby Party has a run of show. There are pewter julep cups engraved with the Davenport initials that have the patina
of heirlooms, and the Amazon order history of 2021. Parker bought heritage with expedited shipping, and honestly, that's the most American thing about him. The seersucker comes out, the hats are encouraged, the invitation says hats encouraged, and the
mint is grown in a dedicated planter that Parker refers to without blinking as the julep bed. The race itself lasts two minutes, the party lasts six hours. Parker has done the math and is at peace with it.
There is a betting pool run with play money and printed odds sheets that Parker formats himself the night before, and the winner receives a trophy, an actual engraved trophy, the Davenport Cup, currently in its seventh year of circulation. And if you think a grown man can't get misty handing another grown man a fake gambling
trophy over a horse neither of them could pick out of a lineup, you have never been to Parker's house in May. The bottle never leaves the kitchen island because the kitchen island is Parker's stage.
This is where he holds court with a cup in one hand and the Woodford in the other, delivering the same 45 second seminar to each arriving guest like a docent who loves his wing of the museum. Pot still and column still, he'll say the marriage, then the word Versailles, pronounced
ver-SALES, delivered with the tiny pause of a man presenting his passport. He read the phrase bourbon renaissance in an airline magazine in 2019 and it has appeared at every gathering since, the way some men carry a lucky coin. He is not wrong about any of it, which is the maddening part.
The facts are right, the bourbon is right. It's just that Parker didn't choose this bottle so much as he cast it, auditioned it for the role of bourbon, distinguished, kitchen island, one season a year, and Woodford, a thorough professional, hits its mark every single time.
Because that's the thesis with Parker. Everything is staged and everything performs. The cups perform age. The seersucker performs summer.
The mint performs Kentucky. A state Parker has visited once for a conference in a Marriott he described as really something. Woodford performs mastery, smooth enough that no guest has ever winced, complex
enough that the one friend who got into bourbon during the pandemic nods slowly and says, you can taste the oak. And Parker beams like the oak was his idea. And here's the affectionate part because there's always one.
Go to the party. Seriously, if you ever get the invitation with a little horseshoe on it, go. Because somewhere around the fourth julep, when the race is long over and the hats have migrated to the wrong heads, you'll notice what Parker is actually doing.
He is checking every glass in the room, like a nurse doing rounds. He knows who isn't drinking and has a lemonade ready. He knows whose year was bad. And those people somehow end up in the good chairs.
One Saturday a year, Parker Davenport builds a small seersucker civilization where everyone is welcome and the bourbon is better than it needs to be. And if the price of admission is hearing ver-SALES four times, pour it into the engraved cup and pay it gladly.
The race takes two minutes. Parker figured out a long time ago that the other five hours and 58 are the point. Well the glass is empty and the verdict is officially in. That's going to do it for this episode of Character Proof.
If you enjoyed the show, please hit subscribe, leave us a five star review, and share it with that one friend whose whiskey shelf costs more than their car. You know exactly who I'm talking about. Want us to put your go-to bottle to the test?
Drop your favorite pour in the reviews or hit us up on socials and we might just profile you next. Until next time, drink responsibly, pour generously, and always check your character flaws. Cheers.